Wednesday, May 14, 2014

The Marrow

When a friend decides to move and leave for greener pastures, it's a sad time. I never want to see anyone go. But I always like to do a last hurrah. And for this dear friend, we went to The Marrow. This Harold Dieterle restaurant in the West Village boast both contemporary German and Italian food. And ode to his heritage and the food behind it.
We started with the bone marrow ($17) with sea urchin, fried potatoes, meyer lemon aioli, and baby celery greens. A fat boasting marrow with briny globs of sea urchin schmeared on some toasted bread. I'm a fan of both marrow and sea urchin but the latter was overpowered by other other strong flavors. The delicate flavors of the ocean was muted although the texture did lend a nice creaminess to the dish without adding more fat.

My friends aren't exactly adventurous eaters so the bone marrow was pushing it a little bit. So to ease their appetites a bit, I also ordered the burrata ($15) with butternut squash, sofrito, extra virgin olive oil, and black garlic balsamic. This cheese is similar to mozzarella but has a creamy center instead. When brought to room temperature, it oozes dairy goodness over the other ingredients. And that's exactly what it did. The combination of the sweet squash, and tangy balsamic paired really well with the richness of the cheese. I think we all like this appetizer the most.
And now onto the entrees. One person had the Grilled Wagyu Culotte Steak ($33) with potato and emmenthal cheese gratin, baby red mustard greens salad with a sherry mustard vinaigrette. This was a very large portion of food, especially the gratin. Try as he could to finish it, he couldn't. But he said everything was good from the tender steak, to the slightly bitter salad, to the rich gratin.
The guest of honor has the Grilled Lamb Loin Chop ($38) with braised cannellini beans, escarole salad, fennel, and homemade focaccia. Again, a pretty large portion. The lamb chop was double bone and thick. Again, well prepared with the funkiness of the meat with the fresh greens, and hearty beans.
For myself, I had the Sauteed Monkfish Marsala ($30) with trumpet mushrooms, wax beans, and tarragon. Monkfish is a much heartier fish and doesn't have to be cooked lightly. So a strong marsala wine sauce would not overpower its flavor and texture. The trumpet mushrooms are also meaty and was a nice addition to this hearty dish. The wax beans lightened things up a bit and gave it the texture that it needed. This dish tasted full and strong flavors but was light because it was a fish and vegetables. I thoroughly enjoyed this.
And because I didn't have enough greens in this meal, I also ordered a side of the Roasted Brussel Sprouts ($12) with house smoked ham and malt agrodolce. Little nuggets of bitter cabbage with the smokiness of the ham and the sweet sour flavor of the malt. It was a very good way to make this dish. And it certainly helped cut through all the fat we were eating.
The boys wanted something sweet at the end of the meal so we ordered the Chocolate Chestnut Bread Pudding ($11). This rich, decant dessert was certainly enough to share between the 3 of us. In fact, it probably could have fed a 4th as well. Ooey gooey bread pudding with espresso brittle and coffee ice cream. It was a good end to the meal.
Overall, I enjoyed my meal at the Marrow. The food was delicious an d the serving sizes generous. The service was friendly and attentive. Although they made a mistake and gave us extra cocktails. They took it off the bill and cheered us anyway. Here's to good meals with good friends.

The Marrow
99 Bank Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 428-6000

1 comment:

  1. The pain of goodbye is always eased by good food!


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